The next step of my journey was to the prized jewel of Sicily, Taormina. Perched on a high mountain overlooking the Ionian sea, the old town is a living relic of conquest and history. While its modern day picturesque beaches and luxury filled Corso Umberto bring tourists from around the world, its history portrays a much darker tale. Sitting in the middle of Corso Umberto, the main street in town, lays a massive gate built in the 14th century to defend the city from foreign invasions and to control access to the city. Though originally founded by the Greeks, Taormina later witnessed successive conquests by the Romans, Arabs, and Normans. Taormina’s enduring beauty lies not only in its dramatic views and vibrant streets, but in how its ancient past continues to shape its modern identity.
Taormina is filled with ancient gems, and the Teatro Greco is nothing short of incredible. Originally built by the Greeks in the third century BCE, it was carved directly into the hard rock of Mount Taurus under the rule of Hiero II. In the 2nd century AD, the Romans rebuilt and expanded the theatre, adding grand columns and statues to enhance its use for dramatic plays and gladiator games. The sheer size of the Teatro Greco is impressive, with a capacity to host over 5,000 spectators. It remains a must see attraction and a proud symbol of Taormina’s rich Greek and Roman heritage. Nearby, the archaeological museum houses artifacts and exhibits that provide deeper insight into the region’s ancient history, complementing the experience of visiting the theatre itself.
Packed between residential buildings and shops on a narrow street, Palazzo Corvaja stands as one of Taormina’s rare preserved Arab era sites. Although its street view is unassuming, the palace dates back to the 11th century when it was originally built by the Arabs. The name “Corvaja” comes from a noble family that occupied the palace from the 16th to the 20th century, but the structure itself reflects a rich history of cultural layers. Its core retains distinctive Arab features, especially in the tourettes, while the 13th century expansion introduced Norman elements, including intricately carved panels depicting the Creation. Later, the arrival of the Catalans brought further additions, such as an inner courtyard and decorative facades, blending Arab, Norman, and Spanish influences into a unique architectural tapestry.
Down the hill from the Teatro Greco, within Taormina’s residential quarter, lies the Ancient Odeon. Built in 21 BC during the reign of Emperor Augustus, the Romans constructed it over the remains of a 3rd century BC Greek temple. Like many sites across Sicily, it reflects the Roman practice of repurposing Greek foundations for their own cultural and political purposes.
In Taormina’s central piazza lies the Cattedrale San Nicolo. Built in the 13th century during Norman rule, this cathedral features a Romanesque, fortress like exterior with scattered Gothic details. Its stone facade and crowned battlements reflects the medieval sentiment of defense and authority. Over the centuries, renovations introduced Renaissance and Baroque elements into its interior.
The hike down from the old town of Taormina to Isola Bella was one of the most scenic and rewarding experiences. The descent takes about 20 minutes, leading you past lush vegetation and quiet lookout points with stunning views of the coastline Normally, cable cars connect the beaches and the town, but hiking allowed me to fully appreciate the natural beauty and charm, making the journey incredibly memorable.