As I walked through the center of Catania after my flight, I was immediately struck by a breathtaking display of the city’s layered history. Standing at its heart is the Cathedral of Sant’Agatha, originally commissioned by King Roger I between 1078 and 1093. Sant’Agatha is a beautiful display between the old and the new. While much of its structure was rebuilt in the 18th-century Baroque style after the devastating earthquake of 1693, remnants of the original Norman design still survive.

Built over the ruins of Greco-Roman baths, the cathedral combines the finest elements from the Greeks, Romans, Arabs, and Normans. The Romanesque columns lining the pews were repurposed from the nearby Roman amphitheater, and the three lava stone apses at the rear remain from the original Norman structure. Key Norman features such as the transept and central apse around the high altar also survived the devastating 1693 earthquake. Following this event, the motifs around the facade and the statues of saints were rebuilt as a Baroque addition. These inclusions were grand but restrained, reflecting a more subdued, Roman influenced interpretation of Baroque architecture, especially when compared to the flamboyant styles of the south. 

The sight of the cathedral’s surviving Norman elements coexisting with newer Baroque detailing is a testament to the gritty nature of Catania. Despite various earthquakes and constant changes in power, the people have never lost a sense of their past, and are proud of the complex pieces that make them Catanese. 

Note: The ruins of the ancient Terme Achilliane were inaccessible during my visit due to construction. Nevertheless, their presence beneath the cathedral is a powerful symbol of Catania’s continuity. These layers of history intentionally repurposed over centuries not only speak to practicality, but also to a conscious preservation of identity through architecture.

Just across from the lush garden beside Catania’s main cathedral stands the elegant Chiesa Badia di Sant’Agata, a smaller sister church added during the cathedral’s 17th century baroque renovation. Like its larger counterpart, this church reflects a restrained interpretation of the Baroque style, blending ornate detailing with elements of architectural simplicity. Statues line the upper balcony of the church, where visitors can enjoy a stunning panoramic view of Piazza del Duomo and the cityscape beyond.

Tucked into Catania’s Grotte neighborhood, the Roman Theatre and Odeon complex rests on what was once the acropolis of ancient Greek Katane. Constructed in the 1st century CE on top of an earlier Greek site dating to the 4th century BCE, the theatre was originally used for comedies and aquatic performances. The adjacent Odeon, added in the 2nd century CE, hosted concerts, poetry readings, and musical competitions. The site eventually fell into disuse by the 6th and 7th centuries and was partially overtaken by the Byzantine church of Santa Maria della Rotonda. Much of the theatre remains hidden beneath private homes built after the 1693 earthquake, serving as a reminder of how historical layers are often buried beneath everyday life in Catania. Initial excavations and restorations occurred in the 1970s, and new fragments of this once sprawling Roman complex continue to be discovered in nearby neighborhoods as the city digs for residential homes. 

Situated directly across from my hotel, Castello Ursino is a striking example of medieval military architecture in the heart of Catania. Built in the 13th century by the Aragonese ruler Frederick II, the fortress exhibits thick stone walls, corner towers, and moat, offering a powerful reminder of Sicily’s strategic importance during this period. While it may not boast the ornate artistic features of other sites, its design reflects a cultural and political shift on the island that emphasized defense and consolidation of power.