The port city of Messina is a place unique in its own right. Located on the northeastern tip of Sicily, just across the strait from mainland Italy, Messina has long served as a crucial gateway between Sicily and the rest of Europe. Messina felt quieter than Catania, with its wide boulevards and clean streets. Much of the city had to be rebuilt after the devastating 1908 earthquake and World War II bombings, giving it a more modern and open layout compared to other Sicilian cities. The only real crowd during my visit came from cruise ship passengers making a stop, serving as a reminder that while Messina is not overrun by tourists, it still holds a strategic and cultural place in Sicilian life.
The Messina cathedral is the city's most prized possession. Standing strong in the city’s piazza, this monument is a Norman masterpiece commissioned by Norman King Roger II in 1081. The Norman cathedral was built on a historically significant site that once housed a temple dedicated to Neptune, an early christian church, and later a mosque. The current structure bears the wear and tear of recurring natural disaster, ones that have required extensive rebuilding. There are remnants left of the original Norman character, with notable features including a crown of Norman battlements, a massive aspe, and a wooden beamed ceiling. Although the interior is largely made of modern designs, it reflects the artistic traditions of the Arab-Norman relationship, especially in elements like the beehive roof and the Christ Pantocreator above the high alter.
Just when I thought the marvel of this fantastic church was over, I discovered the Santa Maria sotto il duomo, also known as the crypt of the cathedral. Located beneath the aspe, this church was built alongside the duomo. The crypt stops you right in your tracks, as it features over a dozen of ancient Greco-Roman columns supporting the Romanesque vaulted ceilings. Unlike traditional crypts, this was not intended for burials, but rather served as an active chapel for religious ceremonies. Despite suffering damage from the devastating earthquakes, it has survived and been restored multiple times.
Just to the right of the impressive Messina Cathedral is a smaller, but equally as impressive church. The Annunziata dei Catalani Church is tucked right alongside the better known Messina Cathedral, and is rich in history and beauty in its own right. The church was built in the 12th century during the Norman rule in Sicily, right above the same ruins as the cathedral. Just like its neighbor, this church is a prime example of Norman architecture, which is a conglomeration of Byzantine, Arab, and Romanesque elements that mirror the island’s multicultural history.
The Church’s design reflects the spirit of coexistence that defined the Norman rule of Sicily. Its low, fortress-like exterior contrasts with the intricate details of its arches and decorative motifs, showcasing influences from Eastern and Western traditions. Though modest in size, it stands out for its historical significance and architectural integrity, surviving centuries of natural disasters and urban changes. Today, it remains one of Messina’s most important and best preserved medieval buildings, offering a rare glimpse into the island’s richly layered past.